Neapolitan Pizza

Why Flour Choice Is Key To Success

The pizzamaking environment I grew up in was New England Greek pizza, characterized by being baked in a pan, slowly (around 10-12 minutes), at around 475-550F. I later practiced other American styles like New York, Detroit, Sicilian, and Chicago tavern. These experiences led me to compare and contrast a key difference with Neapolitan and American pizza styles: flour choice.

In my view, everything stems from bake time and temperature. These ultimately direct flour choice, which in turn will determine dough type, which in turn dictates how you will top and bake that dough.

While I am flexible on flour choice for most pizza styles, I find that appropriate flour (namely, an unmalted flour milled from soft wheat, like Caputo Pizzeria) is critical for a classic Neapolitan due to both heat tolerance and dough extensibility.

While I love using high quality all purpose flours, these malted flours brown too early at a Neapolitan’s bake temperature as the malt supplies extra sugars for the Maillard reaction and caramelization through its enzymes (the pizza pictured here was baked in the Ooni Volt 2). In addition to having been milled for extensibility (aiding in quick oven spring), the surface of a dough with unmalted Neapolitan pizza flour stays flexible longer before the crust stiffens in the oven, yielding a soft chew that is not overly bready. Without proper extensibility, you can’t achieve the thin center, airy cornicione, or soft texture that define the style.

Working with this type of flour means moving quickly and decisively. Hesitation can lead to dough sticking and tearing as well as a misshapen crust. Stay focused, but be not so overly rigid that it restrains your movement. Presence matters.

Restraint is also key in toppings: even a gram more of sauce can create a world of difference between two margheritas and their final bakes.

If you want a pizza loaded with toppings, try a style that is characterized by a more substantial crust and higher protein flour, like Detroit or other pan styles.